We left our home port of Key Biscayne, Florida, in March 2021 with no plan other than to head al norte along the Intracoastal Waterway. With neither a destination nor a time frame in mind, we were free to make as many stops, detours and side trips as we desired.
The approximately 2,500-nautical-mile, six-month trip took us through mostly protected waters, including rivers, swamps, bays and bayous. We made it as far north as Massachusetts before deciding to head south, to join New York’s Hudson River and then the Erie Canal, to ready the boat for the westward portion of our return home along the Great Loop.
The Atlantic ICW affords tremendous diversity as it passes through large cities, small towns, secluded fishing ports and desolate anchorages. We tend to favor the off-the-beaten-path stops interspersed with the more popular anchorages and marinas. It is possible to run the length of the Atlantic ICW in a matter of weeks, or, as we did it, to linger for months. It is also possible to spend pretty much every night in a marina or at anchor, depending on your preference.
The ICW is filled with too many treasures to name. Our list of favorite spots was largely dependent on happenstance—the people we met, the weather, the things we did and the natural beauty. There are too many favorite spots to list, but here are some of them, arranged from south to north.
Fort George Island Cultural State Park, Florida
The Fort George River connects to the ICW about halfway between Jacksonville and Fernandina Beach. While it is important to watch the charts as you enter the narrow channel (shoaling is common), once inside, depths are more than 15 feet in the river’s center at low water. Holding is good in a mud bottom in front of Fort George Island Cultural State Park. The anchorage is tight, with room for only two overnight boats. We spent two days at anchor during the week. It was a welcome, peaceful, secluded anchorage after several weeks of the hustle and bustle in South and Central Florida. Highlights included kayaking along the flats, hiking the nearby trails (an easy dinghy or kayak paddle up the river), walking the sand flats at low tide, checking out the beautiful gardens, and exploring historical sites, including the remnants of the former plantation’s slave quarters.
Cumberland Island, Georgia
Located just north of the Florida border, this island—Georgia’s largest and southernmost barrier island—is home to herds of feral horses, National Seashore-designated beaches and protected wilderness areas. The island is accessible only by ferry or private vessel. There is a reasonably protected anchorage with lots of swing room and easy access to the dinghy docks. We saw more than 50 feral horses, explored the many historical ruins, and hiked and biked for miles. One of the highlights was exploring the island after the day tourists departed and the deer started wandering.
Southport, North Carolina
We limped into Southport from Bald Head Island on a single engine to take advantage of Zimmerman Marine’s Southport yard. The city is truly a hidden gem, with a colorful waterfront and Reconstruction-era homes. From the marina, we made the 2-mile dinghy cruise into Southport (far easier than the 6-mile bike ride) and tied up at the Fishy Fishy Café. The town has several restaurants, a cheese shop (aptly named the Southport Cheese Shoppe), a wine store with outdoor seating (bring your own food), a town dock that’s being restored from Hurricane Matthew, a waterfront fish market and a host of other amenities. We walked the waterfront, toured the town and had a delicious seafood lunch at Fishy Fishy Café.
Great Dismal Swamp, North Carolina and Virginia
The Dismal Swamp Canal connects Albemarle Sound in North Carolina with the southern portion of Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. Beautiful and remote, it is not for the faint of heart or wide of berth. The 22-mile canal is as wild as anyplace we have experienced in North America. Rarely more than 30 feet wide with lots of obstructions above and below the water, it has little room for passing boats or overnighting. It is the wilderness that makes this portion of the ICW so special. The wildlife includes deer, alligators, snakes, black bears, butterflies and seasonal birds. The shores are lined with juniper, gum and cypress trees. We were fortunate that we did not encounter any southbound boats on our northbound trip, and that there was room at the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center dock upon our arrival.
Leaving the town wharf (really, a wall) in Elizabeth City, N.C., we proceeded through a swing bridge into the Pasquotank River. It is a beautiful, calm waterway that reminded us more of a river we might traverse by canoe. The next obstacle was a railroad bridge that, as we approached, appeared to be closed. The charts showed a horizontal clearance of 10 feet. Thing 1 Thing 2, our 34-foot PDQ catamaran, has a 17-foot beam. We inched up to the bridge, questioning whether we had made the right decision in choosing the Dismal Swamp route. We made it through with several feet to spare on either side.
The river remains several hundred yards wide for the first few miles, then narrows. At that point, necessity dictates that you slow to a minimum-wake speed. We felt like we were on a one-lane dirt country road with no room to pass, and fallen trees blocking portions of our path, as we tried not to miss a turn.
The Dismal Swamp route also requires that you pass through two locks, the southern of which is at South Mills. The other lock is at the north end of the swamp at Deep Creek, Va. Both locks officially open only four times per day on a fixed schedule. As we approached the South Mills Lock, we radioed the lock operator on channel 13. With no other boats in sight for the 3:30 p.m. lift, she graciously opened the lock about 15 minutes early. We had a nice conversation with the operator, who showed us a black snake that had spent the day making her life difficult. After we exited the lock, she drove to a nearby drawbridge she was also responsible for opening.
After passing through that drawbridge, we were officially in the Dismal Swamp. It made the earlier portion of the passage seem like a superhighway. With our depthsounder showing an average depth of about 12 feet and sections as low as 6 feet, we continued at a conservative 4 to 6 knots, avoiding tree stumps and other obstacles, until we finally reached the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, where there is a well-kept dock for boats to tie up at no charge. We were the third and final boat to arrive that evening.
From there, we hopped on our bikes to make the 4½-mile (each way) trip along a lovely, wooded path to Williams Strawberry Farm for a cup of homemade strawberry, banana and blueberry ice cream. The next morning, we hiked some of the many trails before continuing our cruise north to the Chesapeake.
Tangier Island, Virginia
Tangier is a small island of Chesapeake watermen, many of whom trace their lineage back centuries to the original settlers. A strong Victorian accent still marks the locals’ speech. This island, located in the center of Chesapeake Bay, is accessible only by private boat or ferry. The primary modes of transportation on-island are foot, golf cart and bicycle. The island had a steady population of less than 1,000 people, adding to the feeling of taking a trip back in time. Colorful fishing shacks are used to sort fish in-season, and for storing traps out of season. The local history museum has exhibits that local families donated, and a locally produced movie. They claim that about 80 percent of the soft shell crabs sold in the United States come from Tangier Island or neighboring Smith Island in Maryland. Tangier also has a beautiful, deserted beach a short walk or bike ride from the town center.
We tied up at Parks Marina, the only “marina” on the island. It resembles a commercial fishing dock. The town has three restaurants (only Lorraine’s was open when we were there), a small market and several other stores. The primary gathering spot is outside the community medical center (conveniently adjacent to the island’s burial ground). This is the only public Wi-Fi access point on the island, which has no cell service. We happened to visit the same weekend as the local school’s homecoming. A local teacher, around 80 years old, stopped us to ask, “I don’t recognize you—which one of you was my student?”
Sheepshead Bay, New York
Where to stay when visiting New York City by boat? Sheepshead Bay is a great spot in the heart of Brooklyn. It is a small bay about 12 nautical miles from the Statue of Liberty and a short trip by public transportation to lower Manhattan. We happened upon Sheepshead Bay while looking for a protected one-night anchorage before our planned trip to Long Island’s Fire Island Inlet, to spend a few days enjoying the Fire Island National Seashore.
Sheepshead Bay is full of moorings, many maintained and rented by the Sheepshead Bay Yacht Club. A beautifully restored launch ferried us and our bicycles to shore, where we met the club’s commodore, a local police officer. From there, we bicycled through the most interesting, diverse portion of New York City we have experienced. Sheepshead Bay is a true maritime community full of seafood restaurants and day-charter boats. Many residents speak Russian, and during our first 15 minutes of riding, we came across a Chinatown, a Hasidic Jewish community and an Islamic community. Each had its own ethnic restaurants and shops. Our intended overnight stay turned into a three-day exploration of it all.
Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts
Cuttyhunk is a small island town between Buzzards Bay and Vineyard Sound, to the northwest of Martha’s Vineyard harbor with town moorings and other local seafood, ice cream and breakfast at the Cuttyhunk Café.
A nightly “lobster on the lawn” festival features shellfish and lobster. Nightly community activities during our stay included a trivia night and a variety show. Other highlights included walking trails and well-preserved World War II bunkers.
This article was originally published in the July/August 2023 issue.
