We arise early, launch the dinghy and zip over for a dive, passing a pod of dolphins on the way. We drop into the 85-degree water just in time to see three dozen bumphead parrotfish, then a hawksbill turtle investigating a massive school of brilliantly colored fish. There are one, then two, then three sharks as we make our way along the wall.
It’s a fantastic way to spend a morning—one that we repeat again and again while cruising in the Philippines aboard our Selene 48 Further. During the rainy season, which lasts from July to late December, we keep her at Subic Bay Yacht Club, northwest of Manila, the capital. After Christmas, we head south to Puerto Galera Yacht Club, on the northern coast of Mindoro island. From both bases, we are regularly treated to fantastic adventures and encounters with nature.
The Philippines are composed of more than 7,600 islands. Cruisers could spend a lifetime exploring here and still not see it all. Some of our favorite spots include Coron Island, its volcanic rock walls and parrots; the rainforests that are accessible by motorbike on Mindoro; and the snorkeling at Apo Reef, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s stunning in its own right, as well as a climb away from Kayangan Lake and the Maquinit Hot Springs, which are fantastic for soothing any sailor’s weary bones.
There’s history to explore here, too. In Coron Bay, a spectacular World War II battle saw 120 U.S. planes sink several Japanese ships, which now line the bottom. The site remains one of the best-preserved wreck-diving locations on the planet. What’s even better is that there’s civilization nearby, so after working up an appetite exploring the wrecks, a resort lunch is an option. There are a few resorts near here; the Al Faro has a great swimming pool for watching the sunset.
Sometimes, we want to hang with the other yachties. That’s when we head to El Nido, on Palawan Island. Cruisers with kids tend to congregate here, letting them play with other boat kids to their hearts’ content. Beach parties are packed with coolers, blazing fires and barbecues. It’s nice that no matter how far you cruise to the edge of nowhere, you can always find a spot like this to bring you back to civilization with like-minded cruisers.
The months we spent in the Philippines included a mix of all these types of activities, and more, alternating white sandy beaches where we were all alone with boat-friendly boutique resorts that had luxury restaurants under the stars. We never had to tangle with a typhoon; they usually come during the rainy season and are gone by December. The rain and flooding can be substantial, but the cruising season is generally calm, dry and safe.
And speaking of safety: Despite many people warning us about pirates, we felt just fine in the central and northern cruising grounds. During eight years of cruising here, I’ve heard of two boats that were broken into and robbed, after being left unattended for long periods of time. We’ve never had trouble with local kids who come out to the boats, either. We carry candy and toys, pay the “leader of the pack” 20 pesos (about $1 in the United States) to watch the boat, and have no worries.
Sometimes, the kids will point you to a public market. Quite a lot of them are near the anchorages. We always find fresh produce, fruit and meat to stock our galley. Western items are available in the more populated areas, where cheeseburgers are usually on the menus. And dinners ashore are a steal, usually less than five bucks for local cuisine, a little more for Western options. The same goes for services: My bride loves massages, and can get a one-hour massage here for the equivalent of $5 to $8.
Skilled boat workers get $10 to $15 a day in the Philippines, and technicians earn less than $50 a day. I get our Selene 48 buffed and waxed for less than $250. And it’s easy to communicate with most of them, because English is a popular secondary language. Many people in the boatyards speak fluent English, and most road signs and storefronts are in English too.
The Philippines are a beautiful place filled with low-cost cruising, wonderful people and near-perfect weather. What more could a cruiser want?
This article was originally published in the May/June 2023 issue.
