Every year, I look forward to the time after Labor Day for some of the best boating weather and thin crowds. From my home port in Brielle, N.J., we have enjoyed many September and October runs to Montauk, N.Y., to Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard in Massachusetts, and to Block Island, R.I. These prime cruising areas offer solitude and make a wonderful background for creating boating memories during second summer.
Being able to enjoy second summer means you have to treat your vessel to some TLC now. When boat usage falls off, idle systems and equipment can rapidly develop issues. You can overlook this if a winter haulout is in your plans, but seaworthiness remains critical if you want to use the boat until the leaves turn yellow, or perhaps head south for the winter.
I start in the bow and inspect my anchor, chain and fittings. I pull out the rode and lay it on the trunk cabin roof under the sun. The dry air is a treat for the anchor rode, and the process allows me to inspect the interior of the rode locker, where mildew often collects on the interior walls. A good scrub with soapy water and bleach does the trick after making sure the drain in the locker is free of debris. Give special attention to vinyl-coated anchor chain leads.
While the anchor rode is drying, I inspect the bow rail fittings and other hardware. I tighten fasteners and add a little sealant if any of them appear loose. Look for signs of rust stains that can indicate leaks.
Working aft, I check that my navigation lights are working, and make sure that cabin-window, deck-hatch and portlight caulk is intact. Any caulk that appears spotted with mildew has likely reached the end of its service life and should be replaced.
The same is true for brightwork that warrants a fresh coat of varnish before it cracks, letting moisture invade the substrate and stain the wood. Small chips can be filled with clear nail polish in a pinch, but don’t wait. This time of the year provides good drying weather, so take advantage of it.
If you have a flybridge enclosure, then bathe it gently with soap and water, and rinse it with a soft spray of fresh water to eliminate salt and dirt. Add a coat of clear vinyl protectant and buff it with a clean, soft towel or microfiber cloth. Avoid using paper towels, which will leave trails and swirls of minor scratches. Work the zippers up and down to remove salt deposits, and dab the runs with lip balm.
A coat of wax on fiberglass, and on chrome and stainless-steel fittings, is always easier once the summer sun has lost its intensity. But if the fiberglass has developed a chalky cast, then use a polish to clean it before applying the wax.
Hopefully the summer did not require much bilge work, but as the weather cools, it’s time for due diligence. Wet-cell batteries may need to be topped off with distilled water. Check that the terminals are tight, and free of crust and corrosion. If your batteries have a few years on them and you have been relying on the engine alternator or battery charger to maintain the strength of the house and starting batteries, then you could be in for a surprise when the air temperature drops.
If you are finished for the season and plan to haul the boat, then you can probably get by until next spring to swap in new batteries. But if you keep the boat in the water and believe the battery charger will keep it charged, watch out. Should the electric shore power at the dock go out, a small leak from the stuffing box on the shaft or rainwater that collects in the bilge could be enough to sink the boat if the bilge pump kills the battery.
I prefer to swap my house and starting batteries at the same time. Replacing just one causes a problem for the battery charger, as it overcharges the new battery to maintain the older, weaker one.
Spend an hour in the engine room checking pumps and belts. Look for small leaks, and tighten a hose clamp here and there. Plan for upcoming maintenance, and organize a cost-
effective strategy to avoid breakdowns.
Now is also a good time to inventory your spare parts and replace spares that you used during the summer, such as impellers, clamps, filters, and engine and generator zincs. Check all oil and coolant fluid levels in the engine, transmission and genset. Clean and restock your toolbox.
Last, on your way back to the dock, let all the ponies out of the stable. I do this on every trip, to make sure my Cat 3208 turns up to full 2800 rpm. This exercise tells me that my fuel filters are clean, that all internal temperatures are where they should be, and that all systems are ready for another day out. If an engine can’t hit its rated rpm, it can mean a simple problem such as a dirty bottom or fuel filter, but it also can indicate a serious concern such as a bent propeller or prop shaft. A noticeable vibration requires attention now, before serious and expensive damage occurs.
With so many good days still on the calendar, get out there and have some fun. Second summer only comes once a year, and that time is now.
This article was originally published in the September 2024 issue.
