Every time I build up a sweat washing down my boat, I think back to a Grand Banks 42 I passed on the Intracoastal Waterway. It was neatly docked in a covered shed on South Carolina’s Waccamaw River, totally protected from the elements.
I cast an envious glance and then peered over my windshield and noted several white splotches of seagull “gifts” soiling my foredeck. I pondered how great it must be to have a place where the boat is safe from such disfigurement.
Salt, grime and bird droppings are tough on gelcoat, fabrics, paint and metal, as well as on teak and varnish work. The best defense is keeping the boat as clean as possible.
A smart regimen starts with washing the boat regularly, and more often if you are cruising or fishing every day. A weekly wash will prevent rain, dirt and tree leaves from forming stains that would otherwise etch their way into gelcoat or paint.
Use a neutral-pH boat soap that does not remove wax. To be safe, read the label. Protective wax is a petroleum-based product that nurtures and feeds the gelcoat, which also is derived from an oil-based formula. The last soap you want to use on your gelcoat is a liquid kitchen dish detergent formulated to dissolve oil and grease. Similarly, if your boat is coated with a premium-quality paint, you should only use products recommended by the paint manufacturers to ensure that the finish stays protected.
Marine stores carry an array of specialized products in liquid, gel and powdered formulas. They can remove stains from rust, engine exhaust and soot, fish blood, and waterline discolorations—but some concoctions contain harsh acids that require care and attention. You may need to protect your eyes and skin just to use them safely.
Then, there is the matter of technique. When washing the boat, start at the highest point and work down to the waterline. Remember to spray cushions, and the tops and bottoms of bridge enclosures. For soaping, use a cotton mitt. Be extra generous with the rinse water. Specialty products like black-streak removers are useful on tough areas.
For vinyl enclosures, savvy mates use a dedicated mitt for soaping, and a clean chamois or a vinyl wiper blade to dry the panels. Having special tools for these delicate panels avoids transferring grime that will leave minute scratches and swirls. A monthly treatment of pure wax will keep the clear vinyl gleaming. Do not use cleaner wax—its fine grit can permanently scar clear vinyl. I also avoid using alcohol-based products created for automobile glass windshields. Read those labels carefully, and remember to work the zippers on enclosure panels to clear out dried salt.
Some boat owners plumb a Spot Zero system for cleaning the boat with pure, chemical-free water that eliminates spots and stains. If you use city water at the dock, chemicals and minerals can be left behind in the rinse cycle. A second pass with a chamois cloth is recommended for proper drying.
To keep gelcoat colors bright, regular waxing is required. In northern climes, a few times during the season should suffice, but in southern tropical locations, once a month is the bare minimum. This effort will protect the gelcoat from fading, prevent chalking, repel bird droppings and bugs, and minimize the amount of work required to maintain the surface while cleaning the boat.
Wax must always be applied to a clean substrate. Start with a small section to test the gelcoat’s condition. If the wax is difficult to remove by hand or with a power buffer, or if stains remain, then the gelcoat needs a deep cleaning with a cleaner/wax or polishing compound. These specialty products have a fine abrasive material that cuts through the haze to expose clean gelcoat.
Always go easy with an abrasive compound because it removes a bit of gelcoat, which can generally be seen in the rubbing pad (gelcoat is rarely thicker than a dime). Once the gelcoat is smooth and clean, break out the wax and apply a few coats to cover the surface with layers of sufficient protection.
Salt spray gathers just about everywhere aboard the boat, so be extra diligent when rinsing metal hardware, rails and fittings. I find the best way to remove salt from aluminum or stainless-steel bow and grab rails is to flood them with the hose while rubbing my hand around the rail. Even a soapy mitt can miss salt deposits that are difficult to see, but a wet hand never fails to loosen every grain of salt. While stainless steel is extremely durable, the finish of anodized aluminum is susceptible to corrosion if neglected. Collinite No. 845 Insulator Wax or Flitz are noteworthy products that offer protection when applied monthly.
Carefully washing your boat does more than just clean it. You can also use the time to inspect antenna mounts, radar domes, navigation lights, metal welds, life raft cradles, deck hatches, windshield hardware and caulked seams, among other things. Be alert for missing fasteners or rusted fittings that could indicate a leak, and then take good care of that problem, too.
