Walking the docks recently, I passed a cleaning crew bathing a 90-foot yacht. I paused to speak with the foreman, who told me he charged $10 per foot for his crew’s services. The mental math of $900 for a one-time procedure stopped me like hitting a sandbar at 14 knots.
Why? Because a once-in-a-while cleaning job is not nearly enough. Boats live in a harsh environment, and keeping them clean helps to ensure their value. When it comes to keeping a spotless boat, I am obsessive-compulsive. My habits are rooted from when I made a living as a professional captain. Every boat I skippered, I treated as my own. My sweat equity earned me a good reputation.
Maintaining these boats was a full-time job, but I quickly learned how to the keep the rigs shining from my early days as a mate on charter fishing boats. I would start those days with a quick, thorough rinse to eliminate any grime that had collected overnight on the flybridge, deckhouse sides, foredeck and cockpit. I’d start at the top so any spray or rain would flush the surface clean from the start. Keeping the washdown pump busy all day in the cockpit also was a big help in removing scales and other fish parts that would otherwise bake in place.
Back at the dock after the clients departed, I’d again start at the top to rinse salt from the aluminum framework of the tuna tower. Generally, if you keep the aluminum protected with a nice coat of wax a few times during the season, a thorough freshwater rinse will remove the salt without the need for soaping. Standing in the tower and aiming the hose downstream will release accumulated salt from the hardtop or fabric top.
Everywhere on the boat, always be generous with the water. Stream it back and forth to loosen surface grit and salt before applying a soapy solution to minimize the potential of scratching delicate surfaces, such as varnish trim or clear vinyl enclosures. Equally important: When choosing a boat soap, read the label. Make sure the product does not remove wax. I often see boat owners using dish detergent formulated to remove kitchen grease. It does work, but the solution will quickly strip wax from fiberglass and metal surfaces. Dish detergent is fine for bilge cleaning, but using it for topside work will add to your expenses for waxing.
I like to use a cotton mitt for soaping the different areas, such as the clear vinyl enclosures, glass windows and cabin sides. I find that the mitt’s cuff is especially effective in removing stubborn spots or bird droppings without scratching the substrate.
Any brushes used must have soft bristles. Avoid allowing the sudsy solution to dry on any surface, and rinse everything thoroughly. When doing your topside cleaning, be sure to frequently spray the hull to keep the dirt moving off the boat.
Wiping surfaces dry with a terry-cloth towel, squeegee, vinyl water blade or chamois mop will help prevent water spotting. I do not, however, use a regular chamois for drying fiberglass because the friction from constant rubbing will worry away any protective wax.
Every boat is different in terms of proper cleaning techniques. Some boats have congested foredecks with mounted anchors, cleats and other hardware. They may also have narrow side decks. Carrying a bucket, hose and mop up there can be tricky, especially if there is no bowrail to lean against or hold onto. In those cases, it might be safer and easier to apply boat soap from a plastic squeeze bottle and then hit the area with a wet mop. Another trick is spraying the metal with the hose in one hand, and wiping the rail with the other hand until you feel no salt. This way of doing things eliminates the step of soaping.
Washing a boat may seem like a lot of work. Frankly, it is. But in the process of cleaning, you also get to see many things you might otherwise overlook, such as missing or worn-out caulk, gelcoat cracks or chips, loose fasteners, enclosure tears, damaged zippers and similar problems. A clean boat says a lot about being a savvy skipper. Washing the boat regularly is a good way to show everyone at the marina that you care.
This article was originally published in the September issue.
